If you are looking to fill in some grass-free areas in your lawn, you are probably wondering: does cutting grass make it spread?

The answer depends on the type of grass you have on your lawn. Grasses that are well suited to colder climates do not tend to spread a lot, whereas grasses used in warmer climates can spread. The height of the blades will affect how this happens.

Does grass spread on its own?

Some grasses do spread well on their own. These are warm-climate grasses such as St. Augustine, Bermuda, centipede, and zoysia.

Cool-climate grasses will spread less effectively; these are species such as rye and fescue.

The first thing you need to do is figure out which type of grass you have on your lawn.

There are a few ways that grass spreads on its own.

Seeding

The first method is seeding. Seeding is when the grass plant produces seeds. For most species, this requires growing to a length that is not desirable for lawns. However, some grasses have adapted to grow seeds at lower heights closer to the root.

With all the grass hybrids being used, there is no guarantee that the seeds your lawn produces will be fertile and lead to new grass growth. In short, do not rely on this method of spread to get a lush, full-looking lawn.

Tillering

Tillering is another method that some grasses use to spread. Tillers are a new shoot (or stem) that will grow blades (these are the grass leaves). Grasses that use method are sometimes called clump grasses or bunchgrasses.

This method can make the lawn look thicker, but to actually fill in a bare spot of any size would take quite a bit of time. Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue are examples of bunchgrasses.

Rhizomes

Rhizomes are a third method of spread that some grasses will utilize. This is where a runner shoots out underground, travels away from the mother plant, and starts a whole new plant.

The runners can travel a long way to find a bare spot to populate. Warning, this can also include any nearby flowerbeds!

Most grasses that use rhizomes to spread, also use tillers to thicken. These include Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue.

Stolons

Stolons are similar to rhizomes, but instead of running underground, they run above ground. They can go short or long distances to find an open area to start new grass plants in. They can form multiple new plants along their length.

Creeping bentgrass, St. Augustine, and zoysia use stolons to spread. They will do so rapidly if the soil is easy for the new plant’s roots to penetrate. They can even work their way through other grass types and take over a lawn.

Does cutting grass help it spread?

Ok, so some grass types can spread by various methods. Now the question is, does cutting grass help it spread?

Yes, cutting grass can both thicken a lawn and help it spread depending on the type of grass it is.

If your grass type utilizes tillering, properly cutting it can help the lawn thicken.

If your grass uses runners (either above ground or below), then proper mowing can help the grass spread to bare spots.

Grasses use the same process most plants use to make food, photosynthesis. This takes place in the blades (the leaves) of the grass plant. The blades are the part you are cutting when you mow your lawn.

When you cut the blade of the grass, the plant now has reduced surface area to absorb sunlight. The response of the plant is to create more surface area on the blade.

Cutting your grass to about 2 inches will help promote runner and blade growth. Cutting shorter than this will cause the plant to focus only on blade growth.

You want both parts of the plant to grow. If you only get blade growth from the exiting grass plants, then your grass will not spread.

Cutting too short can also lead to an underdeveloped root system as the plant puts all of its energy into blade growth. A weak root system means your lawn will not be able to support the existing grass plants, let alone spread!

Once you have cut your grass, you want to give it some water and some fertilizer. Both of these provide your lawn with the resources it needs to produce food using photosynthesis.

How Often Should I Cut My Grass?

This will be determined by the height of the grass rather than a set amount of time. To promote the spread of grass, you definitely do not want to cut the grass below that 2-inch height previously mentioned.

For a grass like Bermuda, you want to cut all the way down to the 2-inch mark to encourage spread through runners.

For grasses like St. Augustine and centipede, you want to cut them on the higher side to promote runner growth. Set your mower to cut the blades to about 2 ½ to 3 inches.

After you have cut, watered, and fertilized your lawn, you want to let it recover from the process. Remember that you have essentially just cut off a part of the plant that is used to make food. The mowing process is stressful for the plant, and it needs to grow and recover.

Let your grass grow and recover, but do not let it grow past about 4-inches. Once it reaches this height, the grass thatch will become very thick and will stop water from getting down to the soil and roots.

Of course, grass at that height will also look unruly and will take your lawn from a manicured masterpiece to an unsightly mess! 

If you can, it is also best to mow just after the hottest part of the day or early in the morning. Mowing is already stressful on the grass; blazing heat is an added stress that your lawn doesn’t need post-mow.

Following these mowing tips will give your grass the best chance to spread and thicken.

Will grass spread to bare spots?

Yes, warm climate grass will spread to bare spots if they are a species that can produce runners. These are species that either make stolons (above ground runners) or rhizomes (below ground runners). Only grasses that thrive in warmer environments produce runners.

If you live in a warmer climate that sees summer temperatures of 27 to 30 °C (80 to 95°F), you can get the warm climate grasses that utilize runners to create new grass plants.

If you live in a cold climate, these grasses are not a good option because they will go dormant and turn brown at temperatures below 10 °C (50 °F). This can leave you with a brown lawn before you are ready to tuck inside for the winter!

There are several kinds of warm-climate grasses, and each type has several different species. Below is a list of some common examples:

• Bermuda
• St. Augustine
• Zoysia 
• Buffalo
• Centipede
• Bahia

Seeding

Whether you have warm- or cool-climate grass, the best way to cover bare spots in your lawn is to use a bit of grass seed and some hay or wood mulch.

1. Cover the bare spot with grass seed and push it down a small way into the soil.
2. Fertilize and water the patch, then cover it with the hay or Peat Moss. Peat Moss works far better at stopping birds from eating the seeds.
3. Don’t forget to keep the seeds moist while they are beginning to germinate (grow), but do not flood them with excessive water either.

It can take your grass up to 21 days to germinate, so do not worry if you don’t see any blades popping up in the first few weeks.

The Last Straw

Warm-climate grass can spread to bare spots by sending out runners either on top of the soil or underneath it. Most Cool climate grasses do not have this capability.

Either way, the best way to cover bare spots in your lawn is to seed them.

Will my grass fill in on its own? No, most types of lawn grass doesn’t reseed itself, so to fill those areas in, they will need to be seeded. Once seeded, it will take between 7 and 30 days to grow from seed to plant.

Although grass will not fill in on its own, it is not hard for you to fill it in. Reseeding is the best way to fill in those areas. If you do not reseed with grass, those areas may be overtaken by unwanted plants and weeds. We’ll cover the details of reseeding different kinds of grass, as well as more about why you should bother filling in your grass.

How to Reseed Your Lawn

The best way to fill in those blank spaces is to reseed those areas. Grass does not reseed itself, so you will need to do it yourself.

To get started, you want to make sure those areas are free of debris before seeding. Grab the only tools you’ll need: a shovel or hoe, a rake, a seed spreader, and a hose.

1. You will need to aerate or till the soil to break up the top layer. This allows the roots of the seeds to embed in the ground easier than having to penetrate the hard dirt. 
2. Then prep the dirt with a deep and thorough watering.
3. Liberally cover the open spots in the seed using a seed spreader.
4. Keep the top layer of the ground damp by watering twice daily until the seeds germinate.
5. Do not cover your seed in topsoil. Although birds may snack on your grass seeds, covering the seeds may prevent the grass seeds from sprouting. 
6. Wait until the grass has grown to ¾ of an inch taller than the height you want your lawn to be before mowing for the first time. 
7. After then, you would care for the young grass the same as you would the rest of the lawn.

Overseeding

If you have areas of thinning grass, you may want to overseed your lawn. Overseeding is when you sprinkle seeds on areas where there is existing grass to make those areas thicker. The process is very similar.

1. Rake (or dethatch with a mechanical dethatcher) the grassy areas. 
2. Mow the grass down to a length of 1 to 1½ inches high. This will allow sunlight to reach the seeds. 
3. Use a core aerator to break up the soil. 
4. Then seed the lawn and do not mow again until the grass has grown to ¾ of an inch taller than the height you maintain your lawn at.

The best time of year to reseed or overseed your lawn is in the early part of fall. The ground is still warm, which aids in seed germination. The cooler autumn air is best for seed growth. This will give time for the new grass to get established before the winter rolls in. By springtime, you will be ready to make the Jones’s jealous of your beautiful new lawn.

Why Reseed Your Grass?

If you do not reseed, grass will not grow in those areas. Grass does not reseed itself unless it is left completely alone and allowed to grow to the point of flowering. No one wants to turn their yard into a wildlife area, so that is not an option.

If you leave that area completely alone and nature will decide what happens there. It may stay blank and become a mudhole whenever it rains, perhaps a tree will grow in that area, or – more likely – weeds will make that spot their home.

As we all know, once weeds start in your yard, it will be a constant battle from that point forward. That means it is best to reseed those areas and not just for aesthetic reasons but for practical reasons as well.

Caring For Your Lawn

Now that you have taken the time to get grass growing in those unsightly blank areas of dirt, how do you keep it growing? Keeping your grass watered and free of weeds is pretty much common knowledge, but each season of the year calls for a little different focus area.

1. Autumn – Since this is the best time of the year to reseed, I will start here. After you have the grass started, it is time to prep your yard for winter. Keep your lawn free of falling leaves by raking. Winter is coming, so give the lawn a good feeding with a good all-around fertilizer. In winter months, the ground loses nutrients grass needs.
2. Winter – It is cold, and your grass is brown and isn’t growing. The main thing is to keep the yard free of debris. Another thing to be careful of is foot traffic. Since your grass isn’t regenerating as quickly during these months, don’t trample on it any more than necessary.
3. Spring – During springtime, it is all about regular watering, feeding, and fertilization. Since this is the time for growth and blooming, you will need to watch for weeds growing and pluck those as needed. Do not forget about pest control, either.
4. Summer – Summer is here, and it’s time to enjoy the benefits of your year of work. Keep your lawn mowed and well-watered. This is the time of year that pests are at their worse so find a good insecticide for your lawn.

Common Types of Grass

Before reseeding, it is important to know what type of grass of your lawn is so your reseeding will match. Below are some common types of grass used in home lawns and what areas of the country the lawn is most prevalent in.

• St. Augustine grows well in warm and arid regions like the gulf coast area in the southeastern United States. It grows best in warm areas and does not do well in cold temperatures. St. Augustine requires a lot of water and can’t survive extreme droughts. It is not suited for heavy foot traffic.
• Buffalo is another warm-seasoned grass, but unlike St. Augustine can handle dry climates well. It is also resilient to heavy foot traffic. It is native to the Great Plains but can adapt to most warm-weather areas.
• Zoysia is thick and resilient to both foot traffic and drought. The warmer the climate, the less direct sunlight that is required for Zoysia grass. It will turn brown during winter months or dry spells but will get its green color back with the change of the season or regular watering.
• Tall fescue is good for the transition area of the country where it’s too cool for warm seasoned grass and too hot for cold seasoned grass. Tall fescue will thrive in wet climates but can tolerate droughts
• Kentucky Bluegrass is a cold-season grass that grows very little in the summertime but grows well during the other seasons. It grows best in sunny areas and can resist a moderate amount of foot traffic. 
• Ryegrass is almost shiny in appearance. It is a cool-season but has difficulty growing in more northern areas with extremely cold conditions. Ryegrass also can handle high foot traffic.

This is in no way a comprehensive list or a complete guide. There are many other types of grass and many varieties among the different types. I recommend doing research to find your exact type and then tailor your lawn maintenance plan to best suit that type.

So the question is “can you use autumn lawn feed in spring?” You will not want to apply an autumn fertilizer in spring if you are looking for the best results. Autumn lawn feeds contain a high quantity of phosphates and potassium to make your lawn stronger at the grassroots. These will not work well in spring due to your lawn needing nutrients that help push top growth.

That being said, applying autumn lawn feed in the spring will not necessarily hurt your lawn, but it will not provide the type of results homeowners typically look for in the spring. There is more to consider when making the choice of what lawn feed to use.

Having the right lawn feed will not do much good if it is not coupled with other lawn care activities. In this article, I will guide you through choosing the right lawn feed to use in spring as well as other cool tricks you can apply to give yourself a green, magnificent and healthy-looking lawn.

Knowing The Right Lawn Feed to Use

With so many brands to choose from and crazy marketing spins deterring your decision making, it can be overwhelming to know what to buy. But first things first, you have to know exactly what you’re looking for.

In spring, the grass is just starting to grow back again after going through a harsh, cold winter. While it might be tempting to pump your lawn with feed at this point, you should go a little easy on the fertilizing process.

Too much fertilizer too late in the spring can lead to a rapid growth that can stress the grass and make it have a hard time surviving the hot summer in northern lawns.

What you need to do is to feed your grass on a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer that will encourage steady growth over the next couple of months. When applied, slow-release fertilizers will last between 8-12 weeks, which helps ease your lawn into the summer conditions that are much warmer.

The reason why autumn lawn feeds are not effective for use in spring is that they are usually made to prepare the grass for the cold, icy conditions of winter. They are not made to be particularly good at boosting top growth which provides no benefits when winter is coming and the grass will have a hard time growing in the freezing temperatures.

Instead, autumn lawn feed specifically aims to increase root strength by using their high phosphate and potassium content that is known to improve root strength, length, and diameter. This stronger root system helps the lawn survive winter and be healthy turf come springtime.

At What Point In Spring Should You Apply Spring Lawn Feed?

While most fertilizer brands will encourage you to start the application process early on in spring, this is generally not favorable for your lawn. Cool-season grasses will normally hit their growth peak during late spring; so, it is recommended to start fertilizing around late May and early June as the grass begins to grow intensely.

During the first few months of spring, the grass will naturally be building up carbohydrate reserves in the roots, meaning that much of its growth effort is dedicated to growing its root system. Finally, when summer comes, the nutrients it stored during early spring will then be directed toward growing the shoots.

In any case, if you fertilized your lawn during the last autumn, then the grass will still have some spare nutrients to keep it looking healthy on top.

How to Apply Your Fertilizer

Professional landscapers will typically apply spray fertilizer in a short amount of time with their special equipment. However, if this is not something you do as your day job, then the best option is to use granular fertilizers.

These are best applied during overcast days when the temperatures are not high or during days that forecast a rain downpour. In addition, it is better to spread the granules in the morning when the grass still has some dew glazed on it.

You might want to consider watering your lawn when applying fertilizers because the water will help to dissolve the granules for quicker absorption into the soil. However, be sure to find out whether you need to water your lawn before or after you apply the fertilizers by reading the package or asking your retailer.

To apply the granules, use either a broadcast spreader or a drop spreader to evenly distribute the fertilizer. Make sure that the spreader doesn’t drop large amounts of granules in a single spot as these will scorch that area of the lawn.

How Much Fertilizer Should I Apply?

All fertilizers will have a label on their package depicting their level of nutrients. You will see the letters NPK (standing for Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium) and how much of each is contained in the mixture.

For a spring feed, a combination of 20-5-10 will be sufficient. This means that the fertilizer to look out for is one with 20% Nitrogen, 5% Phosphorus, and 10% Potassium. Don’t forget that.

Remember that the feed you are looking for is a “slow-release fertilizer” so you will have the liberty to wait about 8 weeks before your second application. Lawn expert Jeff Turnbull says that sometimes, your third application should be switched up from chemical lawn fertilizer to organic content such as manure.

What Else Can I Do To Maintain My Lawn In Spring?

Mowing

One of the best things you can ever do for your lawn is to mow it regularly and correctly. As the weather gets warmer during spring, the grass will start to grow at a faster rate. The length at which you should cut your grass is determined by your grass type and the time of year.

You should avoid cutting the grass too short (also known as scalping your grass) as this exposes it to the onset of weeds and moss and can be very stressful on your lawn.

Be sure to also use a sharp mowing blade, as a blunt one will simply tear off the grasstops leaving them looking dull brown and exposed to diseases.

Raking your lawn is something that you’ll be happy about as time goes on. However, try to be gentle while raking the lawn in spring because the soil is still quite soggy and the grass shoots are somewhat tender and can be ripped out or damaged easily.

Overseeding

Overseeding means spreading seeds all over your lawn. The process helps to give your lawn a thicker appearance especially if it was severely damaged during the winter. Overseeding can be done in both spring and fall, but for the best results, I recommend the fall.

Aeration

The process of aeration entails creating small holes into the soil of your lawn. It works well when done together with overseeding, and allows your fertilizer as well as air and water to gain better access to the grassroots.

Watering

As your grass starts growing in spring, remember to keep watering it, in addition to the fertilizer you applied. A healthy dose of water is about one inch per week, and you can reduce this amount gradually as you approach summer.

Needless to say, if you are receiving plenty of rain, then hold back on the sprinkler. If you water the lawn excessively, weeds start to grow and the roots will eventually begin to drown and die away causing a gloomy-looking lawn.

Scarification

Debris and material like moss and thatch might quickly stop your lawn from achieving that thick, deluxe appearance. One way to solve this problem is by taking out the unwanted material before you start applying the fertilizer or carrying out overseeding.

However, it is important to note that during early spring, the grass is more tender and can be damaged with heavy scarification, so be gentle at it and proceed with caution.

Related Questions

What is the difference between autumn and spring lawn feed?

The distinction is really found in the number of nutrients that have been packed in there. Autumn fertilizers typically have an NPK ratio of 3-3-12 or 3-3-6, meaning they are richer in potassium than anything else. On the other hand, spring fertilizers are richer in nitrogen and contain an NPK ratio of about 12-3-12.

My grass got damaged during winter. Do I have to wait till late spring to apply fertilizer?

If the damage was extreme, you can apply a one-time moderate dose of a fast release spring lawn fertilizer. Done with an appropriate level of watering, this will reinvigorate the appearance of your lawn within 4-6 weeks.

Do lawn pesticides kill bees and other animals? Yes, Pesticides hurt bees’ reproductive abilities, which contribute to the dying population. They kill bees in a slow process over longer periods of time, which affect the reproduction rates of entire colonies. The impacts of pesticides on bees and other wildlife are extensive.

The rest of this article shows how pesticides affect bees and other wildlife as well as pesticides to avoid and ones that are safe to use.

The Effects Lawn Pesticides Have on Bees

Bees are pollinators, meaning they move pollen from the anthers of a male plant to the stigmas of female plants. They help the fertilization process of flowers occur. They also collect nectar from plants and convert this into a stored food source which eventually becomes honey stored in a honeycomb.

Lawn pesticides are all toxic at some level because they are meant to kill pests and weeds. 88 million US households use pesticides around their homes.

Lawn pesticides are known to contain carcinogens, are linked with birth defects, can cause liver or kidney damage, and have the potential to interfere with natural hormonal systems in humans. One can only imagine the levels of damage they would do to a small honeybee.

Pesticides are sprayed all over pest-infected areas and weeds to aid in the elimination process. Bees take a direct hit when they pollinate plants. Pesticides can be so toxic they cause bees immediate death, while others slowly infiltrate the bees’ internal systems, damaging their reproductive abilities and slowing down rates.

Naturally, this decreases the bee population more and more over generations.

When bees land on a flower that has been treated with a pesticide or perhaps has residue left from a previous or nearby treatment, the pesticide can also enter the bee’s central nervous system.

This disorients the bee to the point of damaging its thinking and memory capabilities. Once bees are poisoned, they struggle to make their way back to their hives which has a deeper effect on the overall success of the colony.

Pesticides That Kill Bees

The average lawn is home to many weeds homeowners seem to hate. The most common way to get rid of these pesky plants is with herbicide. Herbicides are most effective at killing two main types of weeds, the common dandelion and Dutch white clover, the most common food source for bees.

Dandelions are especially important for bees because they are the earliest pollen and nectar source essential to honey bee colonies who begin their reproduction early in the winter. It is vital for honeybees to start an early process of raising new worker bees. White clover is another early spring bloomer that provides very beneficial pollen the whole year.

In particular, neonicotinoid pesticides are most dangerous to bees, especially in agricultural and farming regions. These are a common class of insecticides with traces of nicotine that are absorbed by plants and transferred throughout the vascular system.

These pesticides have been adopted for use on an extensive variety of farm crops as well as landscape plants. They affect the nervous systems of insects, humans, and other animals, and are highly toxic to small invertebrates, especially bees.

Chemicals are absorbed into the plant they are sprayed on, thus affecting their pollen and nectar. This is toxic to pollinators like bees who feed on them. Additionally, some compounds are strong enough and applied so widely that they remain in the soil long after certain blooming periods. This can affect more plants and pollinators down the road.

These products can be lethal upon a bee’s direct contact with a plant or flower. Additionally, foliar residues on the surface of plants can remain lethal to bees several days after first use. Most of these neonicotinoids are made up of chemical compounds like clothianidin, dinotefuran, imidacloprid, or thiamethoxam which are toxic upon ingestion.

As a result, bees can experience problems with their flight, reduced taste sensitivity, and the slower learning of tasks which all directly impact their ability to forage and their productivity within their colonies.

Pesticides That Are Safe for Bees

Fortunately, there are alternative routes you can take to care for your lawn and garden aesthetic while protecting precious wildlife. Additionally, these alternatives are likely more cost-effective.

Organic Neem Oil

Organic neem oil comes from an evergreen tree mainly found in India, but can be easily accessible online. It is great at repelling small pests like mites but also highly effective at treating fungal diseases such as mildew. If used inaccurate doses it does not threaten pollinators or humans. Neem oil is biodegradable and does not leave a residue. You can make a homemade solution, as long as it is diluted. Your solution should not contain more than 3% oil.

Vinegar

You might already have this solution sitting in your kitchen cabinet! Both white wine vinegar and apple cider vinegar are effective weed killers due to their acidic nature. You can easily pour vinegar into a spray bottle and directly spritz weeds without harming bees whatsoever.

Epsom Salt

Epsom salt is a great tool to have in your gardening arsenal. It is completely safe and non-toxic, while also high in magnesium for your tomato and pepper plants. Epsom salts ward off slugs and snails as well. You can purchase a bag of salt and directly sprinkle it around the base of the plant, or you can mix it with water and salt saline spray to the leaves of plants.

Chrysanthemum

This flower has a natural pest-repelling compound called pyrethrin. They can be planted to repel pests or even crushed up and made into tea which can be sprayed on the leaves of plants after it has cooled down. You might as well make yourself a cup while you’re at it.

Pepper, Garlic, and Onion

In mild concentrations, pepper spray works in similar ways that it might work on human skin. Mix chili peppers, garlic, or onions into a blender with some water mixed in. Boil this mixture on the stove and cool it. Dilute the mixture even more with water after it has been cooled and pour it into a water bottle or spritzer. You don’t want it to be so strong it burns your plants. Make sure you are wearing proper protection like gloves or even goggles when making the mixture so as not to irritate your eyes or skin!

Pesticides You Should Not Use

Under no circumstances should you use neonicotinoids. Here is another list of brand names that contain chemical branches of neonicotinoids like Imidacloprids, Clothianidins, Thiamethoxams, Acetamiprids, and Dinotefurans. Avoid these.

• Bayer
• DIY Tree Care Products
• Ferti-Lome
• Hi-Yield Systemic Spray
• Knockout-Ready-To-Use Grub Killer
• Monterey
• Ortho Bug
• Ortho MAX
• Surrender Brand
• Green Light Grub Control
• Amdro
• Maxide
• Safari
• RoundUp

Other Ways to Keep Bees Safe While Using Pesticides

Much of keeping bees safe while using pesticides involves the discretion and common sense of the user. It is important to be meticulous and vigilant when it comes to safety if you do have to apply pesticides. The best way you can do this is by making sure you are following this protocol.

Read Labels Carefully

Read all package labels very carefully before use, and make sure you are following directions precisely how the package says. Avoid using pesticides that have caution labels such as “highly toxic to bees” or “extended residual toxicity” during peak seasons of bloom. If the label warns you against it, you can be sure these pesticides will do some damage whether that be through application or residue.

Contact Related Industry Workers

Before you decide on using pesticides, be sure you reach out to your county’s agricultural commissioner so they can notify nearby beekeepers of the location of a pesticide. If a pesticide has a warning label, beekeepers in a one-mile radius should be notified by the person doing the application about 48 hours before the use. This allows beekeepers to prepare and protect their hives as much as possible within their control.

Don’t Spray Hives Directly

Do not directly spray beehives with any sort of pesticide! Any form of pesticide applicator that comes in contact with bees can have very serious consequences and affect the long-term reproduction of the hives.

Don’t Hit Flying Bees

If you are in the process of pesticide application, do not spray it directly at flying bees. Any bee that is hit with the pesticide will not be able to fly because of the weight of the drops on their wings. This inhibits their flight path and prevents them from returning to their hive which again, affects the whole colony.

Report Suspected Bad Practices

If you suspect or witness any bad use of pesticides that are intentionally damaging to bees or other forms of wildlife, contact your county agricultural commissioner who can help address these concerns and enforce proper punishments.

What Other Animals to Pesticides Affect?

Pesticides affect bee populations and rodent populations the most directly, as they are specifically used to target these animals and their direct habitats. However, other wildlife suffers from the residual usage of these pesticides.

Animals such as hawks, owls, squirrels, skunks, deer, foxes and coyotes are most indirectly targeted by pesticides as they feed on insects and small animals specifically targeted by pesticides.